Postcard from Downtown Los Angeles

We’re going to need to re-inhabit and rehabilitate our cities and our urban neighborhoods whether we like it or not, because the suburbs are bankrupting our culture, economically, ecologically, socially, and spiritually. – James Howard Kunstler

On a recent west coast (US) whistle stop tour I took a couple of days to check out Downtown Los Angeles. For half a century downtown LA epitomised the country’s flight to the suburbs abetted by mass motorisation — fleeing businesses and residents, abandoned buildings, and a concentration of social problems. Over the last decade, and in particular the last few years, Downtown LA has emerged as one of the most interesting urban stories in America. From mothballed turn-of-the century buildings being re-imagined as lofts and co-working offices- to 21st century transportation systems both unlocking and re-centralising the place, Downtown LA has been quite seriously called “America’s Next Great City.”

Arts District, Downtown Los Angeles

Like 100 years ago Downtown benefits from a convergence of public transportation routes. I arrived from the south via Metrolink into the remodeled Union Station and effortlessly switched to the Red and Purple subway lines which overlap to provide 5 minute headways across Downtown. Los Angeles is rapidly extending and connecting this subway system. The Purple Line will be extended to the “Westside” (UCLA, Westwood) by 2035 and the Metro Line LRT will be extended from the busy 7th St/Metro Station all the way to the beach in Santa Monica by next year. In the short term (2020) the Central Connector project will allow the regional LRT lines from Long Beach (Blue Line) and Pasadena (Gold Line) to run through Downtown using a new alignment while adding three more stations.

Arts District, Downtown Los Angeles

Recently opened Spring Arcade under redevelopment

An ambitious focused rehab project is currently underway on Broadway. Widened footpaths, mid-block crossings, and tightened intersections are part of this ambitious project to help resurrect the district with 12 old theatres and dozens of amazing old buildings many of which remain mothballed above the street level. A circuitous downtown streetcar will be added along here as well. In the short term street upgrades have been “painted on” using the NYC interim design technique of textured paint and physical barriers. The recent changes don’t seem to cause any problems and the traffic is surprisingly tame and civil. The traffic signals are timed with very short phases and concurrent crossings (and better road rules), allow people to walk effortlessly across the numerous dense districts that form the downtown.

Los Angeles Theater. Broadway, Los Angeles

NYC-interim design on Broadway

The residential population in the city has exploded from 29,000 in 2006 to 52,400 in 2014 . While the local population looks very DINK-y (dogs, gym bags) a grade school was opened just last year. This new population has an abundance of consumer choices from the 600 new stores, restaurants and bars that have opened since 2008. In addition to steampunk bars and taco trucks local residents are increasingly being served by conventional retail. So not only can you buy a pair of brand new 1982 Nike Air Force sneakers from the specialty boutique store but you can also pick up a vacuum at Target or socks at Ross. Global brands like H&M and Zara have recently opened very successful flagship stores and the uber hip ACE Hotel has just opened in a refurbished old building.

Angel City Brewery, Arts District, Los Angeles

Urban Outfitters, Broadway, opened 2014.

According to a friend, the technology sector has reached a critical mass with tech companies like NationBuilder using a Downtown location as a key branding and talent attraction strategy. Other large, established creative firms like Yahoo which traditionally locate in Hollywood, Santa Monica, and Culver City are now looking for options Downtown.

During my time in LA I kept thinking about what Gordon Price said to me a couple of years ago- “In 10 years Los Angeles will be unrecognisable”. At that time he was referring to Measure R a successful local tax initiative that provided specific funding from sales tax for public transportation projects. Since that time Downtown LA is already unrecognisable. This is what a city looks like being turned over and re-imagined in real time, and like NYC, it will be worth revisiting time and time again to enjoy the changes. If you are in Los Angeles for a short period of time, do yourself a favour- skip the beach and head Downtown. If you are there after the extension of the Metro Line you will soon be able to do both.

7th Street, Jewelry District, Downtown Los Angeles

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